Getting used to "Fiji Time"

3/22/2012 - Denarau, Fiji

Rebecca and I had a relaxingly slow morning - no interviews, a late checkout, no activities - so we took 30 minutes to lay in our beds before getting out after waking up. Jason and JP joined us for a laughter-filled breakfast, then we took our time packing while CNN kept us up to speed with the serial killer stand-off in Toulose. After a refreshing dip in the pool, we loaded onto the bus for Nadi.

Our tire blew 1 hour into the trip. We unloaded and stood in the blistering sun for 45 minutes while Professor Francis helped the driver change it out. I've been the only one so far not to burn (I do have a rash from hips to neck from how much sunscreen I use - but it doesn't bother me, so I'd rather be red from a rash than red from sunburn), so I'm relieved that despite not putting sunscreen on today, I was able to snuggle up with the shady side of the bus.

Our current hotel is on the Fijian island Denarau. The ultimate resort location, Denarau is a far cry from the poverty-stricken regions of Fiji we've seen. I am not exaggerating when I say that every inch of this island is landscaped. With no visible path to get there, hotel employees sit in the middle of groomed floral bushes and hedges, picking out weeds and trimming branches.

Yet there is a marked dichotomy between physical environment and service at Fijian resorts. While landscapers meticulously tend to the flora, the wait staff and hotel employees make so many mistakes that everywhere you look, there are audible sighs, hands on hips, and sideways glares from one traveller to another.

Western notions of service do not exist. At meals, appetizers and entrees arrive arbitrarily, drinks frequently forgotten altogether. "I didn't order this," or "I actually ordered the…" are common expressions; it's hard to even flag a waiter down, since "excuse me?" or "sir?", spoken louder and louder until any increase in volume would upset tablemates and neighboring diners, is usually ignored. Attempts to correct orders or remove items erroneously added to bills are usually more trouble than they are worth.

It's purely an economic decision: stay 20 minutes and battle with server, manager and owner while everyone waits to get 3 extra beers taken off, or pay the extra $15. Usually we pay. I have no doubt that these are honest mistakes (wait staff rarely write things down, even for parties of 5 or more who are inclined to change their minds once they've heard the others order).

Still, I do experience inward frustration at not being able to order on separate checks at the same table, having to wait 10 minutes for a fork or knife, and I've noticed that I sorely miss the waiter checking in 10 minutes into our meal. I'd give anything to hear: "is everything all right?"

However! The opportunity to practice optimism is not lost on me. All I have to do is tell myself: "I may be getting terrible service, but I'm getting it in Fiji."