Monday 7/20/2009 9:00pm

Innocent drove me into Nairobi super early, on his way to work. His wonderful friend Joseph walked me around for 30 minutes and showed me a few landmarks to look out for so I wouldn't get lost. Finally around 8:30 I sat down for some coffee at the only restaurant I have ever been to (because: it is the only restaurant I have ever been to) and just sat, staring into space. I felt overwhelmed by the things I had come to the city to do, and by having to do them all by myself. I successfully managed to do all of them ... and topped it off by taking a matatu home.

I briefly mentioned matatus in a previous post, because they serve as Nairobi public transportation. Just to recap, they are giant pimped out vans that seat roughly 45 people. Until today I had only seen them from the outside. There are giant decals of 50 Cent, MLK Jr., Obama, etc. plastered on the sides and rear. Bible-themed phrases are airbrushed everywhere, as are arbitrary brand names. The windows are lined with rainbow party lights that flash at night, and the horns honk out tunes. When they go by, the bass is audible all the way down the street.

I've been wary of riding them, having heard stories of pickpockets and warnings about getting ripped off as a mzungu. Plus, none of them seem to have numbers, designated routes, and each one looks different it seems impossible to determine which go where. But today I decided to brave it, with the help of a stranger who led me to the right matatu. It was amazing! There were dance music videos playing on a big screen at the front of the van, and speakers had been rigged into the ceiling all the way to the back. The inside was wall-papered in Kenyan bands and albums. I paid a total of $.50 to go about 20 miles. It was more like a ride than anything, especially each time we drove over a speed bump, causing me to fly a few inches into the air.

I got off that matatu thinking, I belong here. I'm totally comfortable walking in a slum by myself. I know my way, I've got cornrows, I know a few vendors by name, I practically own this street. I passed a stand selling bananas and thought to myself, "mmmm I haven't had a banana in weeks..." but I was too intimidated to get one because I've never bought a banana here before. Maybe there's a specific banana-buying protocol that's different than the pineapple/watermelon buying one. And I unwillingly had to admit to myself that when it comes to life outside the orphanage, I'm still as green as the day I arrived.

This is me with my faaaaaaaaaaaaaaavorite little boy at the whole orphanage, Jenga.


On a lighter note, I've been thinking that it would be a nice gesture to take the family out to see a movie, which they mentioned they'd really enjoy. And then Harry Potter came out... perfect! I have an idea, I said yesterday to the family, why don't we go to Nairobi this week and I'll treat everyone to... Harry Potter!!!!! [Radio Silence, uncomfortable looks between Jane and Innocent]. Turns out Harry Potter is actually a "gentle introduction to witchcraft."

All I can say is... wingalum levio-sah!!!!!!!!!