Tuesday 6/30/2009 9:45pm

The air is full of dust. Not to mention, Kayole (where the orphanage is located) does not have one public trash can. So the dust is made up partially of rotten food, trash, feces (stray cats, dogs, chickens, etc.). From the air to my lungs. My throat has been scratchy for 3 days, because I can't cough the dust out. And my sinuses are clogged to the max, so my ears haven't popped since Saturday.

I learned why Jane said its so dangerous around here. The Mungiki. Wikipedia them. They are so gangster that when they call to threaten you, they tell you their full name, where they live, etc. Two of them were spying on the Americans across the way from me and called up their host family and asked for $1000. Have you wikipedia'd them yet? Have you read the part about the extortion? Obviously the host paid right away.

Now the orphanage I work at is much safer than the ones the other volunteers worked at. By Grace does not have any gang members, let alone any Mungeke to spy on me and extort my host family for money. The kids at the other orphanage will pick your pockets. Some even have guns and knives so they always get food.

I no longer notice the stink of By Grace. Can you guess why? Yes, it is because I now smell the same way. I came home, took a shower, smelled my dirty clothes once I was clean, and gagged.

Here's something fun: I nearly had a meltdown today. We walked 40 minutes through hot dust and garbage strewn fields to watch a speech about a new hospital opening. Now I'm thrilled that a new hospital will be built for Kayole. Thrilled. But the personal space thing is pretty much killing me. This trip was 40 minutes of children clambering to hold my hand on the way, an hour of them sitting partially on top of me, and another 40 minute torturous walk home. When I say these kids were walking next to me, I literally mean that their shoulders were touching my sides so that I had no room to move my arms.

I came very close to losing it. I told them I did not want to hold hands on the way home. I walked next to oncoming traffic, thorn bushes, curbs, and anything else I could find to keep kids from walking next to me. Nothing would stop them. I started elbowing kids out of the way when they came near me. A couple kids walking next to me asked "SJ, are you angry?" All I could do was whine "I'm hot and I'm tired."

I told one of the other volunteers that I was having a hard time with the crowding. She said, "I love sharing my personal space!" as she hugged and was hugged by 8 children, give or take. How will I survive with this crowding? Today I wanted to turn around, run to an internet station, and buy a plane ticket home for tomorrow.

These poor children have no parents, no care takers, no one to give them affection except the volunteers. And I just elbow them away from me. Well I guess I am still helping by teaching classes, even if I can not provide the affection that the other volunteers do. I am not a horrible person. I am not a horrible person. I am not a horrible person... sigh.

3 comments:

Mandie Rose said...

I am sorry to hear that you are suffocated by the stench and the dirt and the children. But remember that we Western children have become cyborgs. Our culture (particularly the modern urban cultures of New York and Chicago and I suspect LA though I’ve never been) operates in digital, intangible, insubstantial realms. Our transition generation, as I call us, struggles to comfortably embrace the crisp, clean, clinical communication modes of zeros and ones. Most of us are okay here. Many of us prefer this reality of texting and facebooking and blogging and videomessaging and instant messaging. But we’re not entirely ready to give up tactile stimuli.

For example, I carry a handheld computer in my pocket that they call an iTouch (which in itself is a purposeful name, designed to trick me into thinking my hands/body/mind are being intimate with this inanimate object when even though the iTouch responds to my heat, it does not feel my warmth, nor does it return warmth). This clever, unfeeling gadget brings me up to speed with technology and I feel hip because of it. And yet I write with a Papermate #2 pencil on legal yellow pad… later to be transferred to the Web, sure, but still, I like the swoop of the pencil point on the pulp. I like eraser shavings. I like dotting the i’s and crossing the t’s. I like that my r’s look like v’s sometimes. I like that I cannot write neatly unless the paper is tilted to 10 o’clock or earlier. These are all imperfections that Microsoft Word likes to correct. But we are not all Times New Roman. Tell me, if you meet a guy for the first time, do you think, “Is he Arial or Helvetica? Nah… he’s Times New Roman.” You know we are not machines. We are meant to sense. I suspect you’re in sensory overload right now.

Think of this: Even though we practice the work of sardines, squeezing ourselves up into each other in subway cars, we know that this practice is temporary, and our end destination is worth twisting our backs and arms and necks and ankles around the bad breath, the body odor, the nasty looks, the irritated toddler, the screeching headphones, the splayed newspaper, the jerk of the car along the tracks. This is our daily commute. What a nightmare. Now these kids grabbing you and hugging you and marching shoulder-to-shoulder; this is their daily commute to the speech about the new hospital. They are not in sensory overload, they are in their daily routine. (Oh, except for the fact that they have this white girl around whom they can’t get enough of. Their curiosity will probably not stop in your time there.) I think it will be extremely difficult for them to grasp where you are coming from. I think they are part of a culture that does not take their senses for granted like our culture. They experience through touch. Why not touch you? You’re there. You’re near. You’re sharing yourself with them but just having shown up in their home.

Maybe it will help you to remember that touch is fleeting. Feelings are fleeting. They will try to hold on to you, but you are a visitor. Try visiting with them in this short time, in their way. If they are children you’re talking about, then maybe they can’t respect yet that you would prefer to visit with them in your way. Maybe you can negotiate. Maybe you can make a game out of it. Just remember that before you know it, you’ll be back Stateside where people here won’t even look at each other, never mind touch each other. There is almost too much personal space here. Then again, I sleep alone, so my view is skewed.

Finally, you are not a bad person.

SJ said...

Oh Mands I love you. What a writer. If you ever make your own magazine, I will read it religiously, esp if its anything like this, which if i know you, you didn't even spend much time on... it just comes out of your head like that.

Thanks for the positive outlook, I can always count on you for it!

Unknown said...

It is difficult for me now to follow Mandie...

I guess it is just a matter of time SJ - you will learn to do with smaller space.